Traveling with kids

Since we started offering our Textile Travel itineraries in 2018, I’ve really enjoyed being able to facilitate families to join us with their kiddos.

In 2021, we hosted the youngest traveler at just 6 months old on our From Fiber to Fabric itinerary, together with her parents. I was so impressed how the little one did, seemingly happy to take in new environments and experiences, and got passed from welcoming abrazo to the next. Of course it helped that the parents came prepared but relaxed!

In 2022, we hosted two young children in Antigua (ages 3 and 6), again with two parents, during our Textile Week. They were able to join in some of the hands-on activities with adult help. At other times, they explored Antigua separately with one parent, leaving the other adult to participate fully in a Kakaw workshop. We also had a teenager join us with their mother later in the year, but at their age we didn’t need to make any special accommodations – they fit right in!

An example of a kid-friendly activity: making tortillas! Just like playdough, but much more delicious.

In early 2023, we had another baby join us – this time, with me 🙂 My little one “helped out” at 6 months old, taking naps here and there, and taking new people and places in with big eyes. Being able to bring my baby along as a guide for this special trip will forever be cherished. It was extra wonderful that the facilitator from Fiber Circle Studio, Alisha, brought her son, too. This community was overwhelmingly warm, and the support I felt as a new mom has left a life-long impression.

This Thanksgiving Week, we will be hosting 4 more children for another round of From Fiber to Fabric. They are cousins who don’t get to see each other as often as they’d like, so they will be participating in our workshops sometimes, and at other times hanging out separately with a family member to enjoy some togetherness on their own. I imagine them exploring the lakeside lush garden, maybe jumping into the lake, or taking some kayaks out at sunrise to venture out on the calm water (always supervised by their family). I hope that they will also enjoy taking part in some of the more “hands-on” activities like preparing plants for dyeing and helping roast seeds and veggies over the outdoor stove during our cooking class with Doña Juana.

How do we accommodate children?

Until now, we have figured out how to host adults traveling with kids on a case-by-case basis. It has been a very organic process. Perhaps because we are focused more on workshops and less on travel-intensive “tours,” it is easier for families (and us, the organizers). Since we spend five consecutive nights at the same hotel for From Fiber to Fabric, it’s easier to bring along the little ones for this itinerary. The slower pace of this trip allows parents to opt-out of certain activities when they feel that is the right thing to do; to refresh, to give their little one extra attention, to stay back from the group. I did this also with my child for our evenings – I always stayed back and had dinner at the hotel, with the baby monitor in hand to make sure he was sleeping well. The other practical aspect to consider is that it is easier for school-aged children to travel for Thanksgiving Week, which is when we have hosted this itinerary so far (though in 2024, we will be running this trip in April!)

Why kids?

I identify myself as an early childhood educator. While teaching children is not how I make a living nowadays, it was, for some time. I’ve always been drawn to alternative education, and enjoyed working in Montessori settings where children’s independence is nourished.

I believe in the lasting effects of childhood experiences. My parents took me along to explore so many places during my childhood, and this exposure they facilitated to different cultures, peoples, lifestyles, traditions… these aspects have formed me. I am who I am now partly because of those childhood experiences, I am certain.

And now, I am also a mother. I am beginning to understand the challenges of international travel with a kiddo. And yet, I know what a special adventure it can be, both as a child and as a mother. I love going into communities and receiving extra-warm smiles, aimed more probably at my child, but hey, I’ll take it, too. The love spills over. I find that in Guatemala, people tend to be more accommodating, more welcoming, when I visit communities with my child. I have never felt unwanted in Guatemala because of a baby. I have, however, had people ask me, “Why didn’t you bring your baby?” during visits, somewhere in there with the phrase “ay, qué pena” which translates to “oh, what a shame.” It is truly a special place in that sense, warm people all-around.

For these reasons (and more), it’s a no-brainer for me that I want to do everything I can to support families to travel and have wonderful hands-on learning in a country I hold so dear. Guatemala is a wonderful place to travel with kids! Children are welcomed gifts, and in most situations, our workshop instructors will instinctively know how to incorporate children as they themselves have taken care of children. Families are important in Guatemala.

Have you been wondering about joining our travels with your child? Let’s talk. What we can offer depends on your child’s age and interest, as well as logistics on our end. But know that we are committed to figuring out a good option for your family whenever possible.

My Littles with the hotel kitchen staff at Lake Atitlán ❤️ So much love for children in Guatemala, it is a wonderful feeling to know you will be supported and welcomed.

-Mari

mari@kakawdesigns.com

Colors of Guatemala Trip Q &A

We have designed a fantastic new itinerary all about natural dye exploration in collaboration with Abigail Rothberg from Mysa. She has been on her “indigo journey” for the past few years in Guatemala, and will be co-leading this fantastic trip in January 2024. We wanted to share a little bit about the thoughts behind its planning, as it is a new topic-based concept, and we are so excited to be sponsoring local artisan partners to come along with us for learning together and from each other.

-Mari

P.S. We also hosted a little Instagram Live and recorded our discussion. You can find it here.

Which part(s) of the trip are you most excited about?

I can’t wait to see what each of us connects to the most, whether it’s a color, an artisan, a process, a dye smell or a plant. I know that everyone will be called to some part of the dyeing process and I’ll be looking forward to hearing about that. 

You’ve lived in Guatemala for a few years, learning and practicing indigo. In your experience, have artisans been happy to share their knowledge with you? Why/why not?

Kakaw really does provide an incredible opportunity with this tour.  Learning about natural dyes specifically is complicated in Guatemala. While finding a teacher for weaving and other textile crafts is possible, dyeing teachers are much harder to come by. Many artisans may give you a demonstration, but true instruction is more difficult to find. Mastering natural dyeing techniques is very challenging and I think those artisans who have mastered these practices are reluctant to give up secrets, but also dyeing can change based on climate, water, available dye ingredients, the fiber you are dyeing, and many other things. This makes dyeing a process of much trial and error, knowing that you may achieve a color and then never achieve it again. I think this too makes artisans reluctant to teach as there are few guarantees with natural dyes. 

How much indigo will we have on the trip? 

We will have the opportunity to dye with indigo but it will not be the focus of this tour. Indigo is still finding its way back into Guatemalan’s artisan culture. Indigo is not widely cultivated in Guatemala and sourcing it can be challenging. There are other plants that Guatemalan artisans are more familiar with that are readily available, so I think it is nice to connect with the idea of using dyestuff that is available to you regionally. 

What makes this trip different from the From Fiber to Fabric itinerary? 

The spirit of these trips is similar—looking at processes from their beginnings. In this trip, however, I really see weaving as a context to understand natural dyeing. For example, we see the process of jaspe and see how jaspe looks on the loom to understand the motivation and creativity behind dyeing practices historically and today in Guatemala. We’re not really looking at a process from start to finish either. On this tour, we are exploring dye practices with different artisans, and getting to know their experiences with dyes and the botanical or natural materials they use. The artisans we’ll be learning with all have a unique perspective and relationship to natural dyeing.

Anything else you’d like to share? Your inspiration for this trip?

I love learning through observation. This is something I have been more exposed to since moving to Guatemala, so this trip is longer so that we have more time to observe artisans and hopefully absorb more so that when we are home and incorporating natural dyeing in our lives we have a more lingering understanding of them.

This tour reflects my own desire to better understand the plants and natural dyes we use; to see materials in their context and environment; and to understand the role and importance of dye plants historically and today. 

Perhaps unconsciously, I designed this tour for practitioners, for those that weave or dye, to connect more deeply a part of the process, perhaps you will take interest in growing dye plants, or foraging for them in your community, perhaps you will look back to traditions in your family and compare them to what you learned on this tour. My aim is that there is a deeper connection formed with your practice by sharing in the master artisan practices. 

How was IFAM??

Now with over a month to fully decompress and look back on the wild ride that was the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, I’m finally sitting down to share a little bit about the experience. Many folks have reached out to wish us luck before the fair, and to ask how things went after. Muchas gracias to everyone. It definitely was a big step for us, so I really appreciate it.

We celebrate 10 years of Kakaw this year. I don’t even remember who mentioned IFAM to me first, because it’s been a recurring topic through those years. Brought up by friends living in Santa Fe as well as knowledgeable artisan sector supporters everywhere. We were ecstatic when we found our in December 2022 that we had been accepted for this year’s fair!

The application process is rigorous on its own, requiring quite a bit of time, energy, high-quality images and the ability to eloquently express inspirations, values, and techniques in English. Thank goodness we had help; our friend Madeline Kreider Carlson! Through Zoom calls and WhatsApp voice messages, we defined and then refined our product line-up through the common thread of natural dyes. We couldn’t have applied in 2022 without Madeline’s help; I was pretty consumed by my growing belly, and the child in me that made life so uncomfortable at times. In fact, the final “Submit Application” button was pressed on my phone from the hospital bed a few days after I had given birth. Ha! If that’s not commitment, I’m not sure what is.

Once it was decided that we would attend in July 2023, we got straight to work. Sketching new colorways of the accepted products (which were all with ikat), announcing the good news to our artisan partners, searching for lighter local materials to reduce shipping weight, and then, to the actual textile production. It look months to dye and weave each of the products. And once the shawls, looms, and bedspreads reached our studio in Antigua, Evelyn and Sucy got busy stitching tags for each item by hand and preparing the export documentation necessary for the market.

But so…. How DID the market go?

Now that we’ve properly done the financial accounting aspect of things, I can say that it went well, as far as sales, but to be honest, I had hoped for more. We sold out of all our highest-priced items which were our jackets and checkered rebozos! But we had made much more of our medium-priced rebozos/table runners, which we still have inventory left of. Unlike many (most?) of first-time attendees, we were not granted any financial assistance to attend the market, so even just airfare, hotel, and food came out to be a significant sum. Now we know how much all of that adds up to be, for next time.

Another shawl that sold out: this newest (and brightest) which I’ve decided to call Sandía Rebozo 🍉 The weavers are already making more, so stay tuned! We should have a batch online soon.

Aside from the direct retail sales from the market, IFAM attendance offers many more benefits. For one, there were wholesalers coming around, so by the end of the market, I was able to get in touch with a few stores and offer some leftovers to the buyers. This worked out really well! And the two days before the actual market opening were conference days full of hands-on practical and more deep-thinking learning concerning the handmade folk art world. I am grateful to have been included in this space, together with so many artists and leaders of the industry from around the world, celebrating beauty, tradition, and skill.

I am also so grateful to have been welcomed so kindly by the many volunteers and friends. We had a lovely friend, Sedona, accept shipments of our products and printed materials for us in Santa Fe. Our friends Bob and Jean did us a great favor in picking up those boxes, and IFAM welcoming star Nina was so generous to make sure everything went smoothly. Susie was so generous to offer a place to stay after the fair for a few days as I waited for our post-fair pop-up market. What would I have done with all this help? I really don’t know!

And what about 2024?

I am almost finished with our application for IFAM 2024. We don’t know if we will be accepted again; the committee is highly selective, and past participation does not guarantee acceptance by any means. But we learned a lot through this process – from production to logistics to the actual selling at the market. We’ve put together some new products that we think would be great additions to our naturally-dyed ikat theme. As we’re given a only a month and a half to complete the new application (if you’re waiting to see how the market goes, like I did), so new design and production had to happen very quickly. If all products are accepted, we will be proudly incorporating three additional artisan groups for IFAM 2024 production.

We would also, again, try to get Francisca to the market. We were unable to get her a visa in time for 2023 — we couldn’t even get a visa appointment at all. But now that Francisca has a valid passport, it should be easier for next time. Fingers crossed!

But the 2023 market is not really “over”… as we have actually not been paid out yet 😬 While I fully trust that such a respected organization like IFAM will *eventually* pay all vendors what they are owed, I had not expected that it would take so long. This is definitely something to keep in mind, because our investment was sizable (for us, a micro business!), and we should now be re-investing everything we can for the busy holiday retail season.

A Day of Sun and Sky Celebrations: The Barriletes of Sumpango

Kelly Moe wrote this beautiful post while helping us in Guatemala last year. Her thoughts as a conscious traveler and admirer of all handmade art forms really resonate with us. Thank you, Kelly, for sharing your experience of the giant kite celebrations! The Festival of the Barriletes takes place every year in Sumpango on All Saint’s Day. The big public reveal and competition are held on November 1st.

Ever since arriving in Antigua, I’ve heard people talk about the “barriletes grandes de Sumpango.” On my past trips to Guatemala, I had seen them here and there, flying in church squares and hanging high above the textiles in Nim Pot. The bright colors and surprising scale piqued my interest, but I didn’t realize at the time how focused the celebration was on a single day or imagine that I would ever be here to attend and celebrate. As kite season begins, you can see them appear outside shops here in Antigua,  even in frosted form on the delicious sugar cookies at Dona Luísa’s! It is an exciting time to be in Guatemala. My mom and stepdad were planning a visit and it seemed like the perfect event to explore together. Our friend and embroidery maestra Claribel is from Sumpango. I have been learning more about the stitches in that area, so I felt  a connection to the town, and we chose to go there.

So, what exactly are the “barriletes gigantes”? They are giant kites, and although you will see a whole range of sizes from tiny flying dots in the sky to fifty-foot framed works of art, the construction and elements are very similar. In doing a bit of research, I read that traditionally, the kites are made from all natural elements, traditional to the surrounding areas, so they are rooted in a strong sense of place. Bamboo for the large frames, kite ropes made of maguey, a local fiber, and even the glue from yucca flour, lemon peel and water. I would be curious to know if they maintain these material traditions, and the next time I go, I will hopefully have a chance to interview some of the makers. I can attest to the large bamboo frames while shopping in a market stall en route to the field where everyone gathers to fly, as we saw groups beginning to file through, carrying massive logs of bamboo on their shoulders, headed to build! Seeing this gave a real sense of excitement and anticipation as I began to realize the scale of the largest kites. The body of the kite is made of paper which is then painted and decorated with meaningful messages, the tails often made of woven fabric where the artist will handwrite messages and prayers.

Under the advice of several people, we had decided to leave Antigua rather early, 6:45 in the morning to be exact! A refrain we heard was “mucha gente y mucho sol” when asking people what to expect of the day. Off we went, and as we arrived, we followed the flow of people and activity towards the festivities.  Unsure of where to go, we found the cemetery first and spent some time exploring in mostly silence and observation. Brightly colored graves and small buildings dotted a rolling cemetery, framed by blue skies and the volcano in the distance. Piles of fragrant, sunny marigolds (also known as flor de muertos or flowers of the dead) adorned headstones and flowed into the street, families gathered drinking steaming cups of coffee and sharing food in clusters near their loved ones’ resting places. Amidst the festive colors, music and kites, I felt a sense of deep reverence while we were in the cemetery.

To be completely honest, I wasn’t quite sure and still am not, what our place was there, or if it was a space that we should have entered. It was rather jovial around 10:00 am when we were there, helado cart and all, and we saw a mix of tourists and Guatemalans. I did take some photos of the larger landscape, none of individual headstones, and decided that I will have them for my own recording but not post. This was a moment where I definitely felt the fine line between understanding and experiencing things and pushing into others’ traditions. I don’t know the answer, and I am definitely interested in input from others and this discussion. The festival itself felt like a clear space for all to engage in, but I think it’s important to talk about these aspects in travel as the two are linked in tradition. The kite festival is not separate from All Saints’ Day, and I think it is when we begin to try and compartmentalize aspects of culture that we at best miss out on deeper understanding and at worst, possibly cause harm or offense to the culture we are learning about and engaging with. Having said that, this unease and questioning I consider an essential aspect of travel,  and in many ways, a gift. It is where we learn to consider other ways of doing and being and engage more authentically with others, and in turn, ourselves.

Now, for the kites! Leaving the cemetery, we begin to wind our way through the ribbon of market stalls, wafts of popcorn like elote charred and slathered with lime, butter and salt, sizzling pots of frying whole fish and stalks of cotton candy and other sugary sundries begin to emerge. As soon as we stepped into the mouth of the field and saw in the distance the first few barriletes gigantes, we knew we had arrived, and agreed our early Antigua departure had been warranted.

The next few hours merged together under a hot sun and a dusty field that slowly filled with families, tourists, spectators and flyers. The wonderful thing about not quite knowing what happens at an event is that everything is a surprise, and an excitement. Not knowing what came next encouraged us to be present and engaged with everything that we experienced. Most of the grand barriletes were being constructed and raised as the morning went on, and every time a new one was successfully lifted onto its frame, cheers erupted. One by one, they sprang up, until eventually we were in a bamboo-framed forest of papel de china, long tassels and fringe fluttering in the wind and gorgeous colors. Although we heard that most of the largest kites do not fly until dusk, the midday sun was strong and the crowds were big (albeit strikingly calm and happy for the most part), and when the event announcers paused for what seems to be a midday break, we decided to say goodbye and make our way back up the hill to town. We were able to see a handful of the medium-sized kites fly, however, some over multiple attempts, and persistence was definitely one of the day’s themes. Collective shouts of arrrrrriiiiiibbba rang out each time one caught a wind for long enough to soar above the heads of the crowd, and not infrequently crashing down onto unsuspecting groups! It’s hard to say their exact size but I would guess the medium sized kites were 5 to 6 feet in diameter, and it was one of these and the artist that made it that is the image that will stay with me most from the day. As you can see from the photo I have included, she was dressed in traditional traje or the traditional clothing of her town. I did not have the chance to speak to her and ask her permission, so I chose a photo that does not show her face but I think still captures her incredible strength and poise. Her kite said “Sumpango, Yo Amo, Guate”  which roughly translates to “Sumpango, I love you, Guatemala” and featured a festive hand-painted Quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala.

While it was her poise that most struck me, everything about it felt symbolic of both the tradition of the day and a representation of the future. While in the past, kite-flying and building were largely reserved for men, this seems to be changing, and we witnessed several all-female groups of builders and flyers. We moved up the hill slowly in a dense but tranquil sea of spectators. People  from all over the world looking to share in food, honor lives passed and surrounded by art that spoke to hopes for the future.

It’s estimated that the town of around 45,000 swells to 100,000 each year for this festival. We climbed the dusty hill and moved together, feeling a closeness after spending the day under the sun. We spent the day at Claribel’s beautiful café in town, who had  invited us earlier in the Fall and I had been touched by the invitation, feeling fortunate to spend a little time with someone who made their home in this special place. Claribel is a maestra of embroidery and our main connection with the group of women who create many of our upcycled corte pieces. She most recently created a special line of Barillette tops to coincide with the holiday. You can still scoop up one of these for yourself, they are gorgeous and one of a kind. I love this direct connection to innovation and tradition. Claribel is a powerful example of these things, running a cafe, helping to organize a group of fellow embroiderers, teaching classes, traveling to pursue her passion and all the while using her own two hands and creativity to do it. 

<Good news! We’ve made more Barrilete-embroidered tops!>

We went to Sumpango to see kites, but I had no idea we’d leave feeling so connected to each other and to a community of people. For me, the festival was a beautiful example of using art to express and celebrate, to honor experiences and history while exploring ideas and hopes for the future. Clari, the woman holding her kite high and strong in the field in her traje, the vendors and the flyers, the families gathered to mourn and remember the lives of their loved ones, the tourists like us coming to observe and absorb it all, we were all there. The deep blue Guatemalan sky dotted with delicate paper kites held a special space for us and whenever I see a barrilete whether it’s hand stitched on a blouse or flying high above me, I will think back to this day I was so grateful to witness.

OOAK Custom Orders

We can’t say this enough – WE LOVE CUSTOM ORDERS!

Sometimes, these orders are for small businesses, like retail shops and brands, that want to offer something unique to their customers. We’ve developed special collections with a common theme, as well as completely new products designed and produced collaboratively.

But we also take one-off custom orders, too! These are usually individuals who are looking for a garment in their custom size, or a special homeware piece in the colors of their interior decor, etc. We want to share this particular recent order as it was something we hadn’t attempted before ❤️ We love the results, and we know that Claribel really enjoyed working on this project, too! Thank you, Verna, for allowing us to make your beautiful idea come to life!

“Having purchased one of these lovely throws some time ago, I already knew how special the cloth was.  There is just something about the feel of the hand-spun cotton that is incomparable.  It is both hefty and soft at the same time while conveying an elegant, yet comfortable, simplicity.

So…I bought two “organic hand-spun cotton throws,” and asked if they could be stitched together to make one big bedspread.  As a long-time admirer of Claribel’s embroidery (and knowing that she is a master embroiderer and teacher of the Kakaw embroidery classes) I requested if she might be available to join the two textiles with a speciality “randa.”  Claribel happily agreed, and went right to work.  Using hand-spun cotton, she embroidered the “custom” flowers and vines!!  I am so pleased with the final result!  SIMPLY GORGEOUS!!! 

Also contributing to its specialness are the many hearts and hands who’ve touched this piece along its journey.  From those who grew, picked, cleaned, and spun the cotton, dyed the thread, made the looms, designed the textiles, wove the cloth, communicated ideas, and…finally…added the beautiful embroidery…this blanket carries some part of each of their stories – a true collaboration!  Slow made, from start to finish…and then a very speedy DHL delivery to my California home.  I absolutely love it!!  And I am in awe.  

Thank you Kakaw Team,

¡Muchísimas Gracias a todos!“

-Verna

Do you have a unique project idea? We currently work with 12 artisan groups and can offer a variety of local techniques and materials to make your ideas come true. Send Mari an email, preferably with a sketch or image, to get the conversation started at mari(at)kakawdesigns.com. You can also find more info on Custom Orders on our website.

How do I choose the right Textile Travel itinerary?

Now that we’ve got 3 options coming up (Nov 2023 – Jan 2024), you might be wondering the difference between them, and which one might be the best fit for you.

In short, here are the main differences between the offerings:

For the most “well-rounded” experience, I recommend From Fiber to Fabric, happening on Thanksgiving week. This trip will give you the best overall introduction to many of the steps involved in traditional textile production. It’s all-inclusive meaning from airport pick-up to drop-off, all accommodations, workshops, and meals are included (except for two free afternoons). You’ll love taking in the beauty at Lake Atitlán.

The Intensive Backstrap Weaving Week is the perfect opportunity for weavers of all levels to learn from master weavers from San Antonio Aguas Calientes. Doña Lidia (see below video) is a caring and patient teacher with dozens of years of teaching experience, including in English, all around the world. Her sisters Doña Blandina and Doña Zoila are also joys to work with, and as we are capping this experience at only 4 students, you’re sure to have plenty of one-on-one personalized attention to improve your weaving skills. This is also a great itinerary for creatives who prefer free time to explore on their own, and Antigua is a great town for just that! Have your afternoons free to visit colonial ruins, sip on excellent coffee, explore the local markets, and more.

If you’re most interested in natural dyes, then Colors of Guatemala is the best option for you! We’re so excited to learn all about the importance of natural dyes historically for the Maya people and get our hands into dye baths and vats to see the variety of colors that can be achieved in a number of different ways. There are so many variables to consider when it comes to natural dyes! All of these topics will be explored in partnership with indigo practitioner (and dear friend) Abigail Rothberg from Mysa. We encourage you to bring your own fibers and materials to add to the vats – it will be great fun! This itinerary will include a backstrap weaving loom that will be prepared in parts by our artisan partners so that we can dedicate more time to dyeing.

Questions? Reach out at hello@kakawdesigns.com

XOXO,

Mari

Announcing: November 2023 in Guatemala!

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Let us know if you have any questions by writing to hello@kakawdesigns.com.

Una semana de tinte natural: Conozcan a Doña Margarita / A week of natural dyes: Meet Doña Margarita

Blog por Alejandra Arrué Lou

A continuación encontrará extractos de mi entrevista con Doña Margarita como parte del taller de tintes naturales con Olga Reiche, patrocinado por Kakaw Designs.

Conozca a Margarita

Cuando conocí a Margarita, al principio me pareció tímida y reservada. Pero después de pasar solo un día con ella, rápidamente aprendí que Margarita era todo lo contrario. Ella es un rayo de sol y vitalidad. Tiene una risa contagiosa, le encanta hacer bromas y tiene una profunda pasión por su arte. Ella cuenta que “desenredar y arreglar el hilo de algodón es una de mis actividades favoritas”. Esto le trae paz y serenidad. A Margarita le importan mucho su familia y su identidad. Ella busca preservar su cultura a través de los textiles que teje. Además, es una líder que quiere expandir su arte y liderar un grupo de mujeres artesanas para seguir experimentando con tintes naturales.

Alejandra: ¿Cuánta experiencia tuvo usted con los tintes naturales antes de este taller? 

Margarita: Yo no he recibido ningún taller antes. Tengo experiencia de mis padres porque mi abuelo ya tenía ese conocimiento. Cuando era pequeña, ellos practicaban el algodón, lo cosechaban, y lo trabajaban. Yo sacaba el algodón y lo clasificaba también. Tengo unos pocos recuerdos que ellos nos decían de las plantas. De hecho, tengo dos tías que viven todavía y conocen el algodón bien. Yo ahorita estoy buscando un huipil que mi mamá hizo con ese algodón. Cuando estaba escuchando a Olga, ya tenía un poco de experiencia y en ese momento estaba recordando del aprendizaje que me dejaron mis padres. Pero no, nunca he recibido un taller como este. 

Alejandra: ¿Por qué le interesó aprender más sobre el teñido natural?

Margarita: Para mi es importante porque quiero rescatar estas prácticas. Así era como lo hacíamos antes. Ahora ya no. Además, me sorprende que una planta saca un color distinto a como se ve. El encino es el color que más me interesa, pero hay otras plantas también que me interesan.

Alejandra: Ya que aprendió bastante esta semana, ¿quiere seguir trabajando con tintes naturales? ¿Cree que va a poder replicar esta práctica en su casa/asociación? 

Margarita: Sí quiero seguir. Personalmente, me gustaría trabajar con grupos de mujeres para experimentar. Ahora se trata de aprender de las plantas que sacan color, especialmente las plantas que hay en mi comunidad de Chamelco. La idea sería tener un grupo de mujeres para practicar, experimentar, y producir. Pero primero tengo que practicar sola para ver si me salen los colores y tintes.

Alejandra: ¿Cuáles son los retos que le puedan dificultar a seguir con el tinte natural?

Margarita: Pues hay muchos retos. Todo dependiendo del hilo. Por ejemplo, no todos los hilos se pueden teñir. O se puede teñir pero no se queda en el hilo fijo. Otro reto será poder encontrar los hilos naturales y los vendedores cerca de donde yo vivo. Por ejemplo, el blanco que muchas veces usamos ya tiene cloro y eso no es natural. Lo voy a investigar. Pero poco a poco.

Alejandra: ¿En su pueblo (Chamelco), hay gente que trabaja con tinte natural? ¿Por qué lo hacen / no lo hacen?

Margarita: Ahorita no hay nadie. No tienen motivación porque es mucho trabajo y los consumidores no entienden el precio alto. Los únicos que entienden son los artesanos. Por eso es importante que los consumidores entiendan sobre el tinte natural, que es elaborado por una artesana, y que requiere muchos días de trabajo. 

Alejandra: ¿Nos puede compartir algo que le impresionó mucho del taller con Olga? ¿Recomendaría este taller a otras tejedoras?

Margarita: De mi parte es muy interesante. Los procesos que nos explicó, en teoría y en práctica, son muy importantes. Si se lo recomendaría a otras tejedoras. Pero como los procesos son complicados y a veces lo hacemos “al ojo”, se puede volver muy confuso. Entonces hay que poner mucha atención. 

Alejandra: ¿Cómo fue quedarse la semana en la casa de Doña Lidia?

Margarita: Fue interesante. Aprendí a usar la estufa. Ya me puse más cómoda. Yo normalmente me levanto a las 3am. Se me olvida que no es mi casa porque no estoy acostumbrada. El viaje fue fácil pero hay que tener paciencia. A veces se tarda más en llegar. 

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Blogpost by Alejandra Arrué Lou

Below you will find my interview with Doña Margarita who participated in Olga Reiche’s natural dye workshop, sponsored by Kakaw Designs. 

Meet Margarita

When I first met Margarita, she seemed shy and reserved. But after spending just one day with her, I quickly learned Margarita was just the opposite. She is a ray of sunshine and vibrancy. She has an infectious laugh, loves to make jokes, and has a deep passion for her art. She notes that, “untangling and arranging threads is one of my favorite activities.” This brings her peace and serenity. Margarita holds her family and her cultural identity dear and seeks to preserve her cultural identity through the textiles she weaves. In addition, she is a natural leader who hopes to expand her craft and lead a group of artisan women to continue experimenting with natural dyes. 

Alejandra: How much experience did you have with natural dyes before this workshop?
Margarita: I have never received any workshop. I have experience with my parents because my grandfather already had some knowledge. When I was little, they would practice with cotton, harvest it, and work with it. I would take apart the cotton and classify it. I have some memory that they [her family] would tell me about the different plants. In fact, I have two aunts that are still alive today that know cotton quite well. Right now, I am looking for a huipil that my mother made with that cotton. When I was listening to Olga, I had a bit of experience and in that moment I began to remember the learnings that my parents taught me. But no, I had never received a workshop like this before.  

Alejandra: Why were you interested in learning about natural dyes? 

Margarita: For me, it’s important to rescue these practices. This is how we used to do it. Not anymore. In addition, it is surprising that one plant emits a color that is different from what it looks like. The color that interests me the most is oak, but there are other plants that interest me as well. 

Alejandra: Now that you have learned a lot this week, would you like to continue working with natural dyes? Do you think you can replicate these processes in your house/association? 

Margarita: Yes, I would like to continue. Personally, I would like to work with a group of women to experiment more. Now, it is about learning about the plants that one can extract colors from, especially the plants found in my community of Chamelco. My idea is to have a group of women that can practice together, experiment, and produce cotton with these dyes. But first I have to practice myself to see if I can extract the plants’ colors. 

Alejandra: What challenges do you foresee if you continue to use natural dyes? 
Margarita: Well, there are many challenges. Everything depends on the thread. For example, not all threads can be dyed. Or maybe they can be dyed but the color does not last. Another challenge will be to source the natural threads nearby where I live. For example, the white thread that we normally use has bleach and that cannot be used. I need to keep investigating. It will be challenging to find all the vendors, threads, and raw materials. Little by little.    

Alejandra: Are there people in your community that work with natural dyes? Why or why not?
Margarita: Right now, there isn’t anybody. There is no motivation because it requires a lot of work and the consumer does not understand the high prices. The only people who understand the prices are the artisans. That is why it is important that consumers understand how natural dying works–it is worked by an artisan over many days. 

Alejandra: Can you share something that impressed you about the workshop? Would you recommend it to other weavers?
Margarita: I found it very interesting. The processes that were explained to us, the theory and the practice, are very important. I would recommend it to other weavers. But the processes are very complicated and sometimes we do things without measuring so it can be quite confusing. So you have to pay very close attention. 

Una semana de tinte natural: Conozcan a Doña Lidia / A week of natural dyes: Meet Doña Lidia

Blog por Alejandra Arrué Lou

A continuación encontrará extractos de mi entrevista con Doña Lidia López como parte del taller de tintes naturales con Olga Reiche, patrocinado por Kakaw Designs.

<Below in English!>

Conozca a Doña Lidia

Cuando conocí a Doña Lidia, me dijo que sus hilos tenían sentimientos y que debíamos tratarlos con respeto. Ellos sienten lo que nosotros sentimos. Aprendí que ella está sincronizada con su arte, con las personas, las plantas, y los animales que la rodean. Doña Lidia tiene un corazón cálido; siempre le gusta conocer a nuevas personas y me trató como si fuera parte de su familia. También es una mujer increíblemente inteligente que entiende bastante los colores, habla 5 idiomas, y ha viajado por todo el mundo. Doña Lidia le importa mucho a su familia y cree firmemente en sus tradiciones ancestrales. Ella quiere seguir aprendiendo más de los tintes naturales porque es la forma más sostenible para nuestro planeta.

Alejandra: ¿Cuánta experiencia tiene usted con los tintes naturales antes de este taller? 

Doña Lidia: Estoy muy agradecida con Mari por darnos este curso porque antes había tenido un taller de tintes sintéticos pero no como este. Era más simple. Yo solo iba escuchando y no haciéndolo.  Yo aprendí junto con otras personas que son de Salcajá. También tengo un poco de experiencia con las plantas. Cuando camino por mi casa, miro las plantas y pienso sobre sus colores y tóxicos.

 

Alejandra: ¿Por qué le interesó aprender más sobre el teñido natural?

Doña Lidia: Me gusta pensar en nuestro futuro y la contaminación del planeta. En esta clase, aprendimos que toda el agua de los tintes sintéticos se tira otra vez en los drenajes. Los tintes sintéticos se pueden hacer en cantidad, son bonitos, y rápidos de hacer. Pero, ¿qué pasa con nuestra salud? No podemos seguir contaminando nuestro planeta. 

El color que más me interesa es el banano con el índigo. Me interesa que tenga solo un poco color. Tal vez los colores no salen exactamente como uno quiere pero se trata de la experiencia y de la conexión con la naturaleza. También me interesó aprender sobre las plantas y las frutas, como dependen del clima y si ha llovido.

Alejandra: Ya que aprendió bastante esta semana, ¿quiere seguir trabajando con tintes naturales? ¿Cree que va a poder replicar esta práctica en su casa/asociación? 

Doña Lidia: Estoy bastante motivada.  Si quiero replicarlo y renovar el tejido. Primero, tengo que involucrar a mi familia. Tengo mucho apoyo de mi hijo que también le interesa este concepto. Tengo una hermana que teje. Pero va a ser un poco difícil. Porque ya todos están acostumbrados a los hilos sintéticos. 

Mientras involucro a mi familia, me gustaría tejer algo con los hilos que hicimos con Doña Olga. Algo que tenga el fondo crudo y encima con los colores naturales que tengo.  Y lo voy hacer con diseños de San Antonio. El tejido será un ejemplo para mientras, y después implementó el proceso poco a poco en los huipiles.

Alejandra: ¿Cuáles son los retos que le puedan dificultar a seguir con el tinte natural?

Doña Lidia: El reto es el tiempo. Hay tiempo pero estamos en una cultura que es rápida, con horario, y con mucha competición. Los tintes naturales tardan más en hacerlos. Nosotros estamos acostumbrados a comprar los hilos en el mercado rápidamente. Pero nosotros mismos tenemos que valorar el proceso natural. Tenemos que reconocer el trabajo y la calidad de los materiales, y reflejar eso en nuestros precios. 

A veces he hablado con personas rurales para explicarles que no hay que comprar cosas sintéticas. Hay que tratar de no ser consumista. Mejor produzcamos más que consumimos. Por eso trato de sembrar. Yo siembro frijoles y verduras. Es mejor mantener nuestras propias cosechas. Cuando yo misma siembro mi comida, es un sentido muy diferente y especial. Es orgánica y más sostenible. Es una lucha porque estamos en un círculo de consumismo y de inconsciencia. Algún día ya no habrá maneras sostenibles. Espero que algún día eso cambie. 

Alejandra: ¿En su pueblo (San Antonio), hay gente que trabaja con tinte natural? ¿Por qué lo hacen / no lo hacen?

Doña Lidia: Nadie trabaja con tinte natural. Yo seré la primera. De hecho muchos de los tejidos se están desapareciendo. Como he dicho, es por el tiempo. 

Alejandra: ¿Nos puede compartir algo que le impresionó mucho del taller con Olga? ¿Recomendaría este taller a otras tejedoras?

Doña Lidia: Me gusta mucho aprender de las plantas. Hay muchas plantas que son fáciles de encontrar, crecen, y no se van a extinguir. Me gusta la experimentación y probar sacar nuevos colores con nuevas plantas. Además, Olga es una excelente maestra. Ella sabe mucho. Pienso que todo lo que nos enseñó hay que practicarlo. 

Alejandra: ¿Cómo fue tener a Doña Margarita en su casa esta semana? 

Doña Lidia: Fue excelente. Yo siempre quiero cooperar y compartir sin ser egoísta. Y así seguimos adelante. Seamos positivos, no negativos. Como he convivido con varias personas de todo el mundo en mi casa, me gusto estar con Margarita y la trate como si fuera mi propia hija. Yo quiero empezar a trabajar con ella y aprender más de ella también. Yo seguiré aprendiendo, no importa mi edad. 

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Meet Doña Lidia 

When I first met her, she told me that her “hilos” had feelings and that we needed to treat them with respect. They feel what we feel. I learned that she is not only in tune with her art but with the people, plants, and animals around her. Doña Lidia has a warm heart; she is open to new people and treated me like I was part of her family. She is also an incredibly smart woman who deeply understands colors, speaks 5 languages, and has traveled the world. Doña Lidia strongly believes in her family and ancestral traditions, and yearns to learn more about how to dye naturally as she believes it is the more sustainable way for our planet. 

Alejandra:  How much experience did you have with natural dyes before this workshop? 

Doña Lidia: I am very grateful to Mari for giving me this opportunity because I have attended a synthetic dye workshop before but not like this one. It was much simpler where I only listened. I learned with other people from Salcajá. I also have some experience with plants. I always look at the plants when I walk around my house and think about their colors and toxins.

Alejandra: Why were you interested in learning about natural dyes? 

Doña Lidia: I like to reflect on our planet’s future and the contamination of it. In this class, we learned about how the water from the dyes are thrown back into the sewage system. Sure, synthetic dyes can be made in large quantities, they’re beautiful, and faster to make. But what happens to our health? We cannot continue polluting our planet like this. 

The most interesting color for me is the combination of indigo and bananas. I like that they have a more pale color. Perhaps the natural dyes do not come out as one had planned but it’s really about the experience and the connection we have with nature. It was also interesting to learn more about plants and fruits and how they depend on their natural environment. 

Alejandra:  Now that you have learned a lot this week, would you like to continue working with natural dyes? Do you think you can replicate these processes in your house/association? 

Doña Lidia: I am very motivated. I would like to replicate and renew my techniques. But first, I need to involve my family. I have a lot of support from my son who is also interested in this concept. I have another sister who weaves. But it will be a little challenging because everyone is accustomed to synthetic threads.  While I involve my family, I would like to weave something with the threads we made with Doña Olga. Something that has a raw background with a more natural color on top. I am going to design using the patterns from San Antonio. This piece will be an example in the meantime and later I will implement the process little by little in my huipiles. 

Alejandra: What challenges do you foresee if you continue to use natural dyes?  

Doña Lidia: The biggest challenge is that of time. We have time but we now live in a culture that is fast, with tight schedules, and competition. Natural dyes require more time to make. We are accustomed to buy ready-to-go threads in the market. But we need to elevate our natural processes. We need to recognize the work and quality of the materials and reflect that in our prices. 

Sometimes when I am talking with people from my community I like to explain that we should not buy synthetic materials. We must not be such consumerists. It’s better to produce more than consume more. That’s why I like to plant my own vegetables, including beans. It’s better to maintain our own harvests. It is much more special when I plant my own food. It’s organic and sustainable. It is a challenge because we are in a cycle of consumerism and unconsciousness. One day, we will reach  a point where there will not be any sustainable practices. But I am hopeful that we can change this. 

Alejandra: Are there people in your community that work with natural dyes? Why or why not? 

Doña Lidia: Nobody works with natural dyes. I will be the first one. In fact, many of our own patterns are disappearing. Like I mentioned, it’s because of the time it takes.

Alejandra:Can you share something that impressed you about the workshop? Would you recommend it to other weavers?
Doña Lidia:  I loved learning about plants. There are many plants that are easy to find, grow well, and are not in extinction. I love to experiment and extract new colors with new plants. In addition, Olga is an excellent teacher. She knows a ton. Everything she taught us needs to be practiced. 

Alejandra: How was having Doña Margarita in your home during the week? 

Doña Lidia: It was excellent. I like to cooperate and share without being selfish. That’s how we can move forward. We need to be positive, not negative. I have shared with many different people from around the world so I enjoyed being with Margarita. I treated her like she was my own daughter. I would like to continue working and learning more from her. I will always continue learning, no matter my age. 

What’s the Antigua Textile Week like?

We’re so grateful to participant Kenna Kloes for sharing about her experience on our very first Antigua Textile Week in July 2022. Read on below!

When I came across Kakaw’s website, I was immediately enamored with the beautiful textiles and offerings. Colorful huipils, leather bags, and beautiful ceramics initially drew me in, and Kakaw’s mission for impact is what propelled me to take another step.

As a graduate student studying Social Entrepreneurship and Change, I was looking for an organization to visit that could teach me about social impact, as well as help me to understand a culture different from my own. When I saw that Kakaw was hosting a Textile Workshop Week in Antigua, Guatemala, I immediately reached out and became the first participant to sign up.

Read on to hear all about the incredible week that ensued, and the unique experiences Kakaw curated for myself and the other workshop participants.

Day 1

After an introductory evening of meeting one another and getting acquainted with the week’s itinerary, the group met back up this morning for an introduction to textiles taught by Karla at Casa de Artes. 

Upon arrival to the beautiful space, we walked through displays of colorful traditional textiles, handcrafted Guatemalan masks, and cases full of unique jewelry to the shaded garden, where there were 7 chairs, surrounded by cotton trees and flowering bushes. For the next two hours, we listened, enamored, as Karla shared with us the history of textile weaving, the symbolism of different patterns and styles, and the technique of natural dyeing.

Throughout the presentation, Karla passed around gorgeous, one-of-a-kind pieces for us to study and appreciate. We got to see everything from single panel huipils to brown cotton buds. Everyone got the chance to ask questions and look around the museum afterward, honing in on the topics that were especially interesting to each of us.

After our time at Casa de Artes, the group headed back to the Kakaw office to find Everilda, who had set out dozens of beautiful textiles and garments in the studio garden for us to look through and purchase. We each tried things on, learned about the regions where each of the textiles came from, and had a ball appreciating the colors, designs, and seemingly endless patterns that were laid out before us.

Our busy morning worked up some healthy appetites, so Kakaw Operations Director Evelyn led the group to a beautiful restaurant for lunch. By then, it had started to rain (as it does during the summer season in Guatemala), but we still opted to sit outside underneath umbrellas, because for a bunch of United States residents, the warm tropical rain was a delightful novelty.

Day 2

Day 2 of the Textile Workshop Week was jam-packed with incredible experiences. All of the participants met up and hopped in a private shuttle van to take the 15 minute drive to an area just outside of Antigua, where we were privileged to be invited to Doña Lidia’s home for homemade lunch and a lesson in backstrap weaving. Lidia is a master weaver with decades of experience and expertise. Along with two of her sisters, Lidia demonstrated the ancient technique that utilizes one’s body for tension at different points throughout the process to create a beautiful textile that can be hung as art, or made into something else, such as a garment or pillow.

The women already had looms started for each of us, so we got to choose our colors, and then get set up to start our very own textiles. I learned very quickly why it takes so many years to become an excellent weaver – it’s a very difficult skill to master! It took me quite a while to begin to get the hang of the simple piece I was making, but Doña Lidia and her sisters were extremely patient, and I was eventually able to get into the groove of the beautiful process. 

After spending some time becoming familiar with the backstrap weaving technique, we washed up and began making homemade tortillas! Doña Lidia had the dough already made, so we got to join in on the fun part of shaping the dough and laying it out on the outdoor flattop in the courtyard area of Lidia’s home. After a bit of snacking on tortillas and coffee, we sat down to a lovely traditional Guatemalan lunch of pepián, green beans, homemade hibiscus juice, rice and corn picked from Lidia’s garden, and sweet flan for dessert. Throughout lunch we got to know one another better and spoke of textile symbolism, life in Guatemala, and favorite foods of the group.

We headed back into Antigua with full bellies and even fuller hearts after experiencing Doña Lidia’s warm hospitality and the creative flow of an afternoon of backstrap weaving.

Day 3

Today when I arrived to the Kakaw Studio (delicious Guatemalan coffee in hand), the studio courtyard looked like a dream. An embroidery expert named Claribel from an area called Sumpango was there with canvas totes for each Textile Week participant already stenciled with an intricate design. She also had baskets filled to the brim with threads of every color imaginable. In the corner was a station set up with water, fresh fruit, agua fresca, and handmade ceramic bowls and cups from Kakaw’s line of homewares.

 

We gathered around a table in the shade and began our lesson in embroidery. Claribel showed us many different kinds of stitches, which we got to practice on the shapes and flowers stenciled into our bags. After a couple of relaxing hours of stitching, we each had colorful designs we were proud of. Every participant got to choose a handful of colors of naturally dyed thread to take home as well to continue practicing what we learned.

After lunch, we took tuktuk’s (zippy little vehicles that are a cross between a car and a motorscooter) over to a lunch spot called Once Once, which is a stunning restaurant offering lots of vegan dishes and fresh drinks like matcha lemonade. After a couple of days of intensive learning, we relaxed into conversation and enjoyed one another’s company. 

Day 4

On day 4, I arrived to the studio excited to get my hands dirty with an Indigo natural dye workshop taught by the lovely Abigail of Mysa Fine Crafts. After a couple of days of working with intricate, detail-intensive methods such as weaving and embroidery, it was refreshing to switch directions a bit and work with a natural dye that is both art and science, as well as a bit unpredictable.

We started our session with Abigail by lighting a candle to acknowledge and center ourselves on gratitude for the borrowed knowledge we were about to put into practice by creating and using indigo dye.

This ritual started off our workshop on a reverent and lovely note as Abigail went on to explain the history of indigo and a bit of the science behind how the plant gets transformed into an incredible substance that turns textiles a rich, pigmented blue.

After a time of questions and learning, it was our moment to prepare our pieces and get to work! We each received a canvas tote bag to dye, and some participants brought garments from home to dye as well. The process itself is a fun and artistic one, where you get to use rubber bands, strings, clothespins, and other tools to create the designs you want. Then, after adding all the right ingredients, it’s time to dip your textiles in the natural dye. Each of ours came out completely different, and absolutely beautifully. While we dyed, we snacked on hibiscus juice and fresh papaya, delightedly revealing each textile that emerged from the dye vat. 

By the time we finished ooh-ing and ahh-info over our indigo creations, we were ready for lunch. We took a lovely stroll through the colorful city of Antigua to a restaurant called Saberico, where there was a table waiting in the garden. It was a lovely end to a meaningful day.

Day 5

We missed Kenna on this last day! Unfortunately, she had to leave a day early and so did not experience our very last day of workshops. But had she been able to stay, she would have been part of a Chajul-style pomopm-making workshop with our friend and master maker Chato in our studio garden. Using naturally-dyed thread, these packed pompoms are carefully created one by one. Traditional uses are discussed as well as how to wear the poms in the original headdress form.

The last lunch together was also hands-on, including a talk and experience on heirloom corn in Guatemala. Everyone practiced making their own tortillas (again), and enjoyed a traditional meal with a modern twist.

Conclusion

Unfortunately, as it sometimes goes with international flight schedules, my plane left before I could participate in the last day’s workshop, but the others got to make their own pom poms, which I heard was an absolute blast. And if the other days were any indication, I know everyone learned a lot about culture and history, while also getting to work with their hands and exercise their creative muscles,

This Kakaw Textile Week in Antigua, Guatemala was a truly life-changing experience. Hearing artisans’ stories, participating in ancient practices, learning about the art and history of textiles, and getting to meet others from around the country was a true gift that helped me foster a deeper appreciation for weaving, dyeing, and all that goes into making traditional garments.

From delicious food to expert workshop teachers, to private and safe shuttle transports, Kakaw thoughtfully curates meaningful experiences that help participants focus on what they’re there to learn: culturally rich and meaningful textile history and practices.

If you’re thinking about joining a Kakaw workshop, you can take it from this participant – saying “yes” will be one of the most enriching decisions you ever make.

Interested in joining our next Textile Week? Now taking reservations for January 2023:

Find more details on our website.